Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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We only charge sales tax for orders shipped to residents living in Texas.

We offer a live guarantee for the Dubia roaches as long as the daily high is below 88°F and above 50°F, and they are held for pickup at the post office. Most DOA orders occur when they are not held for pickup.

We ship orders on Mondays.

We use USPS Priority Mail for shipping.

Yes, we charge for shipping on replacement orders, but only if the live guarantee criteria are met.

If you receive a dead-on-arrival (DOA) order, please take a picture of the DOA bugs and send it to us via email.

Dubia roaches are considered one of the best feeder insects for reptiles like bearded dragons because of the following reasons:

1. High Protein Content: Dubia roaches are rich in protein, with adult and nymph stages containing 47.50%–54.32% protein. This high protein content supports the growth and overall health of bearded dragons.
2. Low Chitin: The 3.83%–5.58 % chitin content in Dubia roaches is relatively low compared to other live feeder insects, which makes them easier for reptiles to digest. This is helpful for young dragons or those with digestive sensitivities.
3. Moisture Content: Dubia roaches have 59.06%–62.70% moisture, which helps in keeping bearded dragons hydrated while providing a nutritious meal.
4. Low in Ash: With 2.47%–4.17% ash, Dubia roaches are low in indigestible material, making them easier to process and providing more usable nutrients for your bearded dragon.
5. Easy to Care: Dubia roaches are easy to care for because they need minimal maintenance, have simple dietary needs, and thrive in various environments.

No, Dubia roaches are non-aggressive and do not bite humans. However, some may develop allergies, particularly from touching their frass (fecal matter) or body parts. Therefore, individuals with respiratory conditions should take precautions like wearing gloves and using respiratory protection.

Dubia roaches are high in protein and low in fat, which makes them suitable feeder insects for many pets:

Dubia roaches multiply at a moderate but steady pace. Here is how the process works:

• Dubia roach nymphs tend to reach adulthood in about 4-5 months.
• Female roaches begin breeding 2-3 months after reaching maturity.
• The gestation period for a female dubia is around 65 days, after which she gives birth to 25-40 nymphs per clutch.
• A single female can produce approximately 175 offspring per year under ideal conditions (Temperature between 80-90°F and moderate humidity).

Dubia roaches are generally considered non-flying. While adult males do have wings, they lack the muscles and ability to maintain sustained flight. On the other hand, female Dubia roaches have only mutilated wings that do not support gliding or flight.

Dubia roaches are not picky eaters. The cheapest food for Dubia roaches includes readily available and nutritious options. Some of the affordable choices are:

Dubia roaches primarily enjoy a diet of fresh fruits (Bananas, Apples, and Sweet Potatoes), vegetables (Carrots, Squash, and Beets), roach chow, and pet food like dog food, etc.

Roaches are generally not known to carry parasites. While all insects can carry parasites, Dubia roaches, which are raised in hygienic conditions, are less likely to transmit parasites to reptiles.

Dubia roach can die due to various factors, often related to their environment, diet and colony conditions. Dubia roaches can die due to environmental factors like improper temperature(70-85°F), humidity, and poor ventilation, causing mold. Dehydration, improper feeding, and competition for food also result in their decline. Overpopulation, cannibalism, and mites may worsen conditions.

No, Dubia roaches are unlikely to infest your home if they escape. They need specific conditions, such as high temperatures and humidity, to survive and breed. In most homes, they won’t survive for long and will die off quickly. Unlike invasive roaches, Dubia roaches are poor climbers, slow breeders, and need a constant food supply, making an infestation unlikely.

Leaving Dubia roaches in your bearded dragon’s enclosure is generally safe for short periods, such as during feeding sessions. They can help bearded dragons promote their natural hunting behavior. However, it is important to remove any uneaten roaches after 15-20 minutes to prevent potential stress or injury to your dragon.

Dubia roaches turn white due to a natural process called molting. This is a part of their growth where they shed their old exoskeleton and emerge with a soft, white body. This new exoskeleton gradually hardens and darkens over several hours to days. If you see a white roach, it is likely freshly molted and will regain its normal coloration shortly.

Dubia roaches thrive and breed fast in the following conditions:

• Temperature: The ideal range is 80°F to 95°F (27°C to 35°C), with the optimal breeding temperature being around 90°F to 95°F (32-35°C). They can survive at lower temperatures but may not breed as effectively below 70°F (20°C).
• Humidity: The ideal humidity level for Dubia roaches is between 40% and 60%. Too much high humidity can cause mold and fungus, which are harmful to the roaches, while low humidity can lead to dehydration.

Dubia roaches do not smell bad. They may have a slight, musty odor, but it is not strong or unpleasant. A foul smell usually indicates a problem, such as mold, bacteria growth, or decaying food. So, it is important to maintain proper humidity levels, remove spoiled food, regularly clean the enclosure, and remove dead roaches.

Yes, Dubia roaches are generally considered better than crickets as a feeder insect for reptiles and amphibians. They have high nutritional value, including better protein content and an optimal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, which is important for preventing metabolic bone disease.

Additionally, Dubia roaches are easier to digest due to their soft exoskeleton, have a longer lifespan, and are easier to handle.

They are also odorless, and less likely to escape, which makes them more convenient and cleaner than crickets.

Dubia roaches prefer darkness and do not need lighting in their enclosures. Exposing them to light can cause stress and hinder their breeding. To mimic their natural environment, it is best to keep their habitat in a dark area, such as a closet or under a table. If you are using a clear container, you can cover it with a cloth to block out light. At the same time, some ambient room lighting is acceptable. Avoid direct light sources like heat lamps or overhead lights.

You can buy live Dubia roaches online from TopFlight Dubia which offers high quality Dubia roaches perfect for feeding reptiles like bearded dragons. We sell sizes ranging from 500 to 50,000 roaches, shipped loose in a box with detailed care instructions and nutritional info.

Dubia roaches are an excellent food source for various reptiles and amphibians, including: Bearded Dragons, Leopard Geckos, Veiled Chameleons, Pacman Frogs, Tarantulas, etc.
However, it is essential to consider your pet’s specific needs.

Gutloading is the practice of feeding nutritious foods to feeder insects, like Dubia roaches, before offering them to your reptile or amphibian.

Benefits of Gut Loading Dubia Roaches:

• When you feed the roaches with a diet rich in nutrients, these beneficial elements are transferred to your pet upon consumption.
• Calcium is one of the important nutrients that are vital for bone health.

Butterworms are larvae of the Chilean moth (Chilecomadia moorei), native to central Chile. These worms have soft bodies and are orange in color, which are commonly used as a feeder insect for reptiles, amphibians, birds and as a fishing bait.

Yes, butterworms can be a great addition to some pets’ diets, particularly for reptiles and amphibians. However, they should be offered sparingly due to their high fat content.

Dubia roaches are a nutritionally complete staple feeder insect as compared to butterworms. Dubia roaches are high in protein, calcium, and minerals, while butterworms are extremely high in fat.

Butterworms tend to grow between 1 and 1.5 inches (2-3 cm) in length.

Butterworms can last for longer periods of time when stored properly. They can typically keep for 1 to 3 months when refrigerated at a temperature of 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat butterworms, but they should be offered sparingly due to their high fat content.

Butterworms do not bite, but they can expel a viscous fluid when they are disturbed or bitten.

Butterworms eat the leaves of the Tebo tree, also known as the Peruvian pepper tree.

Crickets can be a good addition to the diet of reptiles that are insectivores because of the following reasons:

• They are a good source of calcium, protein and other essential nutrients.
• Crickets are easy to care for and can be purchased in large quantities.

Yes, crickets are considered a good source of food due to their high nutritional value and potential environmental benefits.

Crickets can live 2 weeks without food.

The lifespan of crickets last about 8-10 weeks.

In the wild, crickets eat insect larvae, aphids, flowers, seeds, leaves, fruit, and grasses.

Crickets can bite, but they arn’t strong enough to break human skin. If they do manage to bite, it could lead to an infection because crickets can carry harmful bacteria like E.coil and salmonella. While they usually don’t bite, their waste can carry these bacteria and tiny worms, which makes them undesirable to have around the house.

Yes, many crickets can fly. Most cricket species have hind wings that are membranous and folded when not in use for flight.

Here is how you can keep crickets alive:

The number of crickets to feed a bearded dragon depends on its age and size:

No hornworms are not harmful.

They are used as a food source for certain reptiles, and other animals especially picky eaters.

No, hornworms do not bite or sting. Their horn is a soft, fleshy structure.

Bearded dragons, uromastyx, amphibians, tarantulas, leopard geckos, and scorpions, etc.

Typically, hornworms live up to 2 to 3 weeks in order to begin the life cycle again.

Hornworms grow fast nearly double in size in warm temperatures.

Yes, the adult stage of hornworms, known as sphinx or hawk moths, are capable of flying.

The ideal temperature and humidity for the proper growth of hornworms is 82°F and 40 to 50% respectively.

You will need to ensure a long light exposure of 12 to 15 hours a day to prevent the pupae from entering a dormant stage.

Yes, you can touch superworms. Superworms do have a small pin on their backs that they can use to bite or pinch if they feel threatened, However, their jaws are not strong enough to break human skin.

Yes, superworm beetles have functional wings but are not strong fliers.

Yes, superworms can lay eggs.

Yes, superworms can bite your lizard, but it is usually rare and not very serious.

Superworms can live quite long as compared to other feeder insects. They usually live 3-4 months, but with the ideal conditions and care, they can survive 6 months to a year or longer, especially when kept together.

Yes, superworms are known to prefer dark environments.

Superworms can be surprisingly hardy, but several issues can cause significant diet-offs:

1. Too low humidity can cause dehydration and death. However, too much moisture, especially in substrate, can lead to mold, bacterial growth, and suffocation.
2. Superworms need good airflow to prevent buildup of moisture and waste gases. Closed containers without ventilation can cause toxic buildup.
3. Excess food, especially moist vegetables like carrots or potatoes, can rot and create a damp, unhealthy environment.
4. Temperatures above 85°F (29°C) can stress and kill superworms.
5. Rolled oats are commonly used but can hold moisture. Alternatives like bran or game bird feed (which has good calcium/phosphorus ratio) are popular. Make sure the substrate is dry enough but provides some moisture retention.
6. Water crystals or water on a plate can help provide moisture without soaking the substrate. Some keepers use strings soaked in water hanging inside the container for safe moisture access.
7. Crowding can cause increased waste, less airflow, and higher stress, leading to deaths.

They grow to about 50 to 60 mm (1.7 to 2.25 inches) long when fully grown.

Superworms do not grow very fast compared to some other feeder insects. Here is a quick overview:

• Eggs hatch into larvae within about 7 days.
• The larval stage lasts around 3 months.
• After this, they pupate for about a week before becoming adult beetles.
• Adult beetles take around 2 weeks to mature and start laying eggs.

Mealworms are used as food for various animals, including pets like reptiles, birds, and fish, and as fishing bait.

The lifespan of a mealworm can take anywhere between four months and a year.

Mealworms do not drink water, but they get moisture from the food they eat, such as fresh fruits and vegetables.

Several factors can kill mealworms, such as:

• Extreme temperature
• Lack of moisture
• Poor diet
• Mold and bacteria
• Predators
• Physical injury

Mealworms can typically last for 3-4 weeks at room temperature before they either die or begin to pupate into a beetle.

It takes 3 weeks to see regular breeding in mealworms after beetles emerge from the pupa.

Here is how you can keep feeder mealworms alive:

1. Use a plastic container with plenty of ventilation holes to ensure airflow.
2. Keep mealworms in dry substrate like oat bran or oatmeal. Avoid moisture to prevent drowning.
3. Feed mealworms nutritious food (gut loading), like commercial gut-loading diets or fresh veggies.
4. Store mealworms in a cool, dark place.
5. Take mealworms out 24 hours before feeding to rehydrate and feed them.
6. Change substrate and refresh food periodically for best health and longevity.

Yes, dried mealworms do not really experie quickly since they are dehydrated. If stored properly in a airtight container and keept in a cool, dry plate or refrigerated, they can last many months or even years.

Mealworms generally do not carry diseases when properly raied and handled.

Waxworms are the larval stage of the greater moth (Galleria mellonella). They are known for their soft, cream-colored bodies and their ability to eat beeswax and other materials within beehives. As adults, waxworms turn into small, brown-grey moths.

The waxworm (larval) stage can last from a few weeks to several months, depending on temperature and conditions. Pupation and emergence into adult moths can happen relatively quickly at warmer temperatures or take much longer at cooler temperatures.

For keeping waxworms, a wide-mouth glass jar or a plastic crisper is recommended.

Most household refrigerators are too cold for waxworms and can kill them. Room temperature is often a bit too warm but generally safer than very cold fridge temps. So, the best place is the refrigerator door, which is the warmest part of the fridge, though temperature can still fluctuate.

Waxworms mainly live off their fat reserves while you're keeping them, so they do not need to be fed regularly.Captive waxworms are usually raised on a mixture of cereal bran, honey and grain.

Yes, waxworms are considered a good, nutritious feeder for various animals, including reptiles, birds, and amphibians.

Yes, waxworms contain protein.

Waxworms last about 2-3 weeks when they are kept in a refrigerator door.

Mealworms are considered a more nutritionally complete and balanced food source for reptiles and other animals compared to waxworms.

Waxworms are good for reptiles but they are very high in fat and should only be used as treats.

Bearded dragons can eat wax worms, but as an occasional treat.

Yes, silkworms are considered a good and nutritious food source for many reptiles.

No, silkworms do not bite. They lack the necessary mouthparts to bite or sting.

Yes, you can feed silkworms to your bearded dragon. They can be used both as a treat and even as part of a staple diet. However, it is best to offer a variety of insects for a balanced diet—mix in Dubia roaches, crickets.

Silkworms consume mulberry leaves.

The lifecycle of the silkworms lasts about 6 to 8 weeks.

Silworms, being domesticated, no longer live in the wild and are raised in captivity. They primarily live on mulberry leaves.

Bearded dragons should not eat mushrooms. Read more.

Bearded dragons can eat Dandelions. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat corn. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat collard greens. Read more.

Bearded dragons can eat cauliflower. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat cherries. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat basil. Read more.

Bearded dragons should avoid eating avocados. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat asparagus. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat arugula. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat broccoli. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat lettuce. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat eggs. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat pineapple. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat parsley. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat peaches. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat green beans. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat cantaloupe. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat bell peppers. Read more.

There are many greens that you can give to your bearded dragon. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat raspberries. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat potatoes. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat apples. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat spinach. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat celery. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat blackberries. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat peas. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat pumpkin. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat radishes. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat squash. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat Brussels sprouts. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat cucumbers. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat watermelons. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat earthworms. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat oranges. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat carrots. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat cilantro. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat kiwi. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat kale. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat tomatoes. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat cabbage. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat bananas. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat blueberries. Read more.

Yes, bearded dragons can eat turnip greens. Read more.

No, bearded dragons cannot eat rice because they are not easy to digest.

Bearded dragons cannot drink milk because they are lactose intolerant. Unlike mammals, they don’t have the enzymes needed to digest dairy, which can harm them if consumed.

Yes, bearded dragons can live on a substrate of soil. Like a 50/50 mix of play sand and organic topsoil. You can use non-fertilized, pesticide-free soil to avoid harm. Avoid fibroush materials like coconut fiber and mulch to prevent impaction. Make sure to provide 2-4 inches of subsrate for digging.

Bearded dragons are omnivores in their natural habitat and eat a mix of plants and insects.

Some bearded dragon owners believe sand can be a suitable substrate but many experts recommend against using it.

Here is how you can set-up the bearded dragon habitat:

• Tank Size: Use a minimum 120-gallon tank (4x2x2 feet) for adults.
• Substrate: Choose safe substrates like play sand, or a mix of topsoil and play sand with peat moss; 4-6 inches deep.
• Decor: Add branches and rockets for climbing and basking; avoid pine or cedar wood. Sanitize natural wood by baking or boiling.
• Basking Spot: Use heat lamps (two 100W bulbs recommended) to maintain 105°F basking area; prefer regular basking bulbs over ceramic heat emitters.
• UVB Lighting: Use strong UVB bulbs to avoid weak bulbs like coils or T8s.
• Additional Lighting: Add LED daylight strips for brightness and aesthetics.
• Setup Completion: Add water and food bowls; optional plants for decoration.

Here is the temperature best for bearded dragons:

• Ideal basking spot temperature: Around 100–105°F (38–41°C) for adult bearded dragons.
• Warm side ambient temperature: Approximately 88–93°F (31–34°C).
• Cool side ambient temperature: Mid 70s°F (about 23–25°C).
• Use a temperature gun: To measure the exact surface temperature of the basking spot.

Some prefer slightly warmer or cooler basking spots—observe your pet’s behavior.

There are many types of substrates you can consider:

• Safe options: Newspaper, paper towels, reptile carpet— easy to clean and safe, especially for young dragons.
• Loose substrates: Play sand, calcium sand, or a mix of topsoil and play sand (avoid those with fertilizers or chemicals).
• Avoid: Walnut shell, crushed walnut, or dusty substrates that can cause impaction if ingested.
• Bioactive setups: Some use organic topsoil mixes with plants, but this requires careful maintenance.
• Recommendation: Start with simple, non-loose substrates for juveniles, adults can handle loose substrates but watch for ingestion risks.

Slate or ceramic tiles are the best non loose flooring as they absorb heat well and offer a clean, safe surface.

The best bedding for bearded dragons is loose, natural substrates like a DIY mix of play sand, organic topsoil, and excavator clay. Safe alternatives include paper towels, newspaper, or textured slate/ceramic tiles.

Yes, bearded dragons need UVB light throughout their lives. UVB helps them synthesize vitamin D3, which is essential for calcium absorption.

Yes, bearded dragons can drink tap water, but it needs to be filtered and dechlorinated first.

You can use clay pots, cardboard boxes, half-domed hollow logs, commercial pet caves, or inverted plastic food storage containers.

Bearded dragons should have atleast two hides in their enclosure:

• One hide on the warm side (basking area).
• One hide on the cool side.

Additional hides or climbing structures like hammocks and branches are recommended for enrichment and to provide more comfort and security.

Here is a simple beginner’s guide to caring for a bearded dragon:

• Use a big tank (4x2x2 feet) for adults; babies can start in smaller tanks like 20-40 gallons for a short time.
• Provide UVb light and a warm basking spot around 100°F.
• Feed lots of insects (Dubia roaches, Crickets) and fresh greens, dusted with calcium.
• Use safe flooring like paper towels for babies or a mix of play sand and soil for adults— avoid calcium sand.
• Give fresh water and mist to keep them hydrated.
• Add hides and branches for climbing and digging.
• Clean their tank often and take them to the vet if needed.

Temperature :

• Basking spot: 100-110°F (38-43°C), measured on the surface with a temp gun.
• Warm side ambient: Around 90-95°F (32-35°C).
• Cool side ambient: Between 75-84°F (24-29°C), but anything above 68°F (20°C) is fine.
• Night Temp: Can safely drop to 64°F (18°C) or slightly lower.

Humidity: Ideally 20-40% during the day; can spike to 50-60% at night. Avoid constant high humidity to prevent respiratory issues.

A minimum enclosure size of 120 x 60 x 60cm (4 x 2 x 2ft) is recommended to house an adult Bearded dragon.

PVC is generally preferred for better heat retention, humidity control, and ease of cleaning for bearded dragon enclosures.

Consider a basking bulb for daytime heat and light. CHE only for nighttime supplemental heat if needed. Keep UVB bulbs at full strength during the day.

Use a combination of accurate thermometers and a thermostat.

Bearded dragons, being diurnal, need a daily cycle of 10-14 hours of light, followed by 10-12 hours of darkness.

Here is how you can prevent humidity from getting high or too low in the enclosure:

• Use a digital hygrometer to accurately monitor humidity.
• Improve airflow by adding vents, opening doors slightly, or using a small fan.
• Remove standing water and plants that add moisture.
• Consider switching to non-moisture-retaining substrates like tile instead of sand.

Spot cleaning daily is important for removing waste and odor, while a full substrate change should be done every 3-6 months.

Place the water bowl on the cool side of the enclosure. This keeps humidity lower since less evaporation occurs, and the cooler area is less likely to encourage digging or substrate disturbance around the bowl. Keep the food bowl separate from the water bowl, ideally away from damp substrate to minimize accidental ingestion.

Yes, you can provide multiple hide boxes or basking perches.

Here is what a leopard gecko eats:

• Staple Foods: Dubia roaches, Crickets, mealworms, and superworms are great staple insects.
• Treats: Waxworms can be given as treats but only occasionally, since geckos might refuse other food if overfed.
• Other Insects: Silkworms, hornworms, and locusts can also be part of the diet for variety.
• Supplementation: Dust all feeder insects with calcium and vitamin D3 to help your gecko absorb nutrients properly.
• Feeding Frequency:
  Juveniles: Feed daily or every 1–2 days for healthy growth.
  Adults: Feed 2–3 times per week.

Important Tips:

• Gut-load insects (feed them nutritious food) before offering to your gecko.
• Choose insect sizes appropriate for your gecko to avoid choking.
• Always provide fresh, clean water for your gecko.

Yes, leopard geckos need a source of UVB light, but they don’t need direct sunlight.

Yes, leopard geckos can survive for extended periods without water. While they can tolerate going without water for a few days, it is important to provide them with a consistent source of water in their enclosure.

Yes, leopard geckos are capable of climbing.

Read more about caring for Leopard Geckos.

Here is a simple summary on how to safely handle a leopard gecko:

• Use both hands to scoop the gecko, supporting all four feet.
• Always support their entire body, especially the back legs.
• Allow the gecko to walk across your hands without rushing.
• Move gently to avoid stressing your gecko.
• Never grab or squeeze your gecko, as this causes stress.
• The tail is sensitive, so avoid pulling or sudden touches.
• This gives your gecko space to move and feel secure.

Leopard geckos should be fed according to their age and size.

• Use both hands to scoop the gecko, supporting all four feet.
• Baby leopard geckos need to eat daily.
• Juveniles can be fed every other day.
• Adults can go for a few days without food.

Yes, leopard geckos can eat Dubia roaches.

Most leopard gecko owners feed about 3 to 6 Dubia roaches per feeding for an adult gecko around 7-8 inches long. You can feed your pet every other day or about 3-4 times a week.

Pacman frogs are good pets.

Here is what a Pacman frog eats:

• Insects: Crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, wax worms, and hornworms.
• Worms: Nightcrawlers, red wigglers, and small earthworms.
• Small Animals: Pinky mice (newborn mice), occasional full-grown mice or baby rats as they grow.
• Other Foods: Small fish like guppies or minnows, and other frogs

No, it's generally not recommended to touch Pacman frogs frequently. Their skin is sensitive and can be easily damaged by handling, and they may also bite if they feel threatened.

Yes, Pacman frogs can eat Dubia roaches.

Yes, overfeeding Pacman frogs is possible, although they often stop eating when full. Avoid feeding too many high-fat insects like mealworms regularly as they can cause obesity.

Yes, Pacman frogs can eat Dubia roachesA Pacman frog can go weeks or even months without eating.

Pacman frog typically lives up to 10–15 years.

Read more about caring for a Pacman frog.

• Juvenile Pacman Frogs (under 1 year old): Feed every 1 to 2 days
• Adult Pacman Frogs (1 year and older): Feed 2 to 3 times per week — larger prey like pinkie mice or big insects can be offered.

Feeding Tips:

• Only feed what your frog can eat within 10–15 minutes.
• Avoid overfeeding.
• Monitor weight and body condition regularly to ensure proper nutrition.

Panther chameleons are good pets.

It's generally not recommended to touch chameleons regularly.

Yes, panther chameleons can eat Dubia roaches.

A minimum enclosure size of 36" x 18" x 36" (90 x 45 x 90cm) is recommended for a Panther chameleon. Some suggest a larger 2' x 2' x 4' (or 36" x 18" x 36") cage for a better living experience, as bigger is generally better for chameleons.

The feeding frequency for panther chameleon depends largely on their age and growth stage:

• Hatchlings and Babies (up to ~6 months old): Feed twice a day with as many insects as they can eat in 10-15 minutes. This supports their rapid growth.
• Juveniles (6 months to ~1 year): Continue feeding once or twice daily, adjusting portions as the chameleon grows.
• Adults (1 year and older): Feeding can be reduced to once a day or every other day, depending on the season and individual needs.

Here is how you can maintain the correct humidity levels:

• Daily Misting: Spray water inside the enclosure once or twice a day to keep humidity within the ideal range.
• Use a Hygrometer: Place a reliable hygrometer inside the enclosure to measure the humidity level accurately.
• Adjust as Needed: If humidity is too low, increase misting or add a water dish; if too high, improve ventilation or reduce misting frequency.
• Provide Moist Hiding Spots: Add damp moss or a moist hide box to create localized humidity for your pet.
• Avoid Waterlogging: Keep substrate moist but not soggy to prevent mold and bacterial growth.
• Monitor Both Day and Night: Humidity can fluctuate, so check levels at different times to maintain a stable environment.

Yes, gargoyle geckos can make excellent pets, particularly for beginners.

Here is what a gargoyle gecko eats:

• Insects like Dubia roaches, mealworms, crickets, and waxworms.
• Fruits like bananas, apples, peaches, and pears but offer in moderation.

Important Tips:

• Dust live insects with calcium powder for healthy bones.
• Provide water droplets from misting and a shallow water dish to maintain hydration and humidity.

Yes, gargoyle geckos can and should be fed Dubia roaches as part of their diet.

Read more about the gargoyle gecko care.

Yes, Veiled chameleons can be good pets, especially for experienced reptile keepers.

Daytime temperature range:

• General ambient: 72-85°F (22-29°C)
• Basking spot: 85°F (29°C)

Alternatively, some recommend a warmer basking spot at 90–95°F (32–35°C)

Nighttime temperature:

• Drops to around 55-65°F (13-18°C)

Thermal gradient:

• Warm end (basking spot): 85–95°F (29–35°C)
• Cool end: about 70°F (21°C)

Key takeaway: Veiled chameleons need a thermal gradient with a warm basking spot between 85°F and 95°F and cooler areas around 70°F, with night temps dropping to 55-65°F to mimic natural conditions.

Juvenile chameleons need to be fed daily, while adults can be fed every other day. You can consider crickets and Dubia roaches as part of their diet.

No, veiled chameleons typically don’t enjoy being held.

Yes, veiled chameleons can eat Dubia roaches as they are healthiest and nutritious addition to their diet.

Axolotls can make good pets for someone looking to observe rather than interact with a pet.

Axolotls need a specific environment and diet to thrive:

• A cool, clean, and well-filtered aquarium with a temperature between 14 and 20°C (57 and 68°F).
• A diet consisting of worms like Dubia roaches and small fish.

Axolotls can eat:

• High protein foods like Dubia roaches, earthworms.
• Sinking carnivore pellets can be used as a supplement.
• Occasional treats can include: thawed bloodworms, raw sashimi-grade salmon (parasite-free), and small shrimp (cherry or ghost shrimp).

Yes, axolotls can eat Dubia roaches occasionally as a snack.

Yes, crested geckos are generally easy to care for.

They don’t need a heat lamp. Crested Geckos are temperature sensitive species.

Crested geckos should be misted at least once a day, and often more frequently.

Read more about caring for crested gecko.

Yes, crested geckos can eat Dubia roaches as they move more slowly than other feeder insects.

The best substrate for a Cobalt Blue tarantula is soil-based materials like humus bricks, Spider Life, peat moss, or Eco-Earth. You can also use compost or potting soil without fertilizers. The substrate should be at least 5-6 inches deep to allow burrowing and help maintain the medium to high humidity these tarantulas prefer.

A cobalt blue tarantula, when adult, generally needs a terrarium that is at least 18" x 18" x 18".

Yes, a Cobalt Blue tarantula can eat Dubia roaches

These tarantulas thrive in warmer temps at around 77-85 degrees.

A 5-10 gallon enclosure is perfect for adult Curly Hair tarantulas

These tarantulas love to eat Dubia roaches, mealworms, live crickets and other insects.

Yes, curly hair tarantulas can eat Dubia roaches, along with other insects like crickets, mealworms, and superworms.

Female black tarantulas may live up to 20 years. However, males have a shorter lifespan than the females.

Brazilian tarantulas love to eat small prey like Dubia roaches, small crickets, etc. Always provide prey size that is appropriate for your tarantula’s size.

Yes, Black brazilian tarantulas can eat Dubia roaches.

These tarantulas can grow up to 8 inches.

These tarantulas primarily eats insects, worms, and small vertebrates.

Read more about caring Goliath birdeater.

Yes, Goliath birdeater can eat Dubia roaches.

Yes, Pink-toe tarantulas can eat Dubia roaches.

Yes, Pink-toe tarantulas are considered good pets, especially for beginners.

Yes, these tarantulas drink water.

These tarantulas have a short lifespan:

• Males: 2-3 years
• Females: 6-9 yeas

These tarantulas grow properly at room temperature and may not need a heat lamp.

No, you don’t need to mist a tarantula. Instead you can provide a fresh water in a small dish glued or placed high inside the enclosure where your tarantula can easily reach it.

Yes, these tarantulas are generally a good pets.

No, these tarantulas are not aggressive in nature.

The venom of these tarantulas is mild and not dangerous to humans.

Read more about taking care of a Rose Hair tarantulas.

A Chilean rose tarantulas primarily eats insects. In the wild, they may eat small lizards, frogs and other spiders.

Male rose hair tarantulas live about 7 to 8 years while females can live up to 25 years.

Yes, rose tarantulas can eat Dubia roaches.

Yes, Mexican red knee tarantulas are generally considered friendly and docile.

The venom of these tarantulas is not dangerous to humans.

Yes, Mexican Red-Knee tarantulas (Brachypelma smithi) do kick urticating hairs as a defense mechanism. These hairs can be irritating or cause itching if they come into contact with your skin or eyes. However, individual tarantulas vary in how often or aggressively they kick hairs.

A female Mexican red-knee tarantulas live up to 25 to 30 years while males rarely live more than 10 years.

Feed 1-2 Dubia roaches per feeding, depending on the size of the tarantula and the roaches.

For a 1-inch Mexican Red Knee tarantula sling, a smaller enclosure is recommended. As the tarantula grows, you can upgrade to a bigger enclosure, but starting small is best for young tarantulas.

These tarantulas can grow to about 10–13 cm including leg span

These tarantulas eat a variety of insects, including Dubia roaches, crickets, and grasshoppers. They are also known to eat small lizards, rodents, and even other tarantulas.

Yes, zebra tarantulas can eat Dubia roaches.

Powder blue isopods are detritivores, meaning they primarily consume dead and decaying organic matter.

You can provide at least 6 quarts in overall volume (about 1.5 gallons).

You can consider coconut coir, sphagnum moss, and a small amount of organic compost as a substrate mix.

The ideal temperature range for these isopods is 70-80°F (21-27°C).

Here is a list of foods that are best for these isopods:

• Decaying plant matter: Leaf litter, rotting wood, dead leaves.
• Animal waste: They scavenge on animal droppings.

Suitable Foods to Feed in Captivity:

• Vegetables: Carrots, cucumber, zucchini, potatoes, squash, leafy greens (use sparingly).
• Fruits: Apples and other fresh fruits (remove leftovers after 24 hours).
• Leaf litter: Essential staple food.
• Specialized isopod food: Available in pet stores or online.
• Protein sources (in moderation): Dried fish flakes, dried shrimp, dried meat dog treats, mealworms.

Powder blue isopods are considered a social species, meaning they do best when kept in groups. It's generally recommended to start with at least 10-20 isopods.

Powder Blue isopods are better climbers than others.

Yes, Powder Blue isopods can benefits from being kept in a wamr environment, but extreme temperatures are not needed.

These isopods are beneficial for bioactive terrariums serving as a valuable cleanup crew.

To keep these isopods alive and thriving, here are the key care tips:

• Use a moist, soil-based substrate like coconut fiber, peat moss, or leaf litter.
• Provide plenty of decaying wood, leaves, and organic matter for hiding and food.
• Keep the substrate moist but not waterlogged — mist lightly to maintain humidity around 70-85%.
• Avoid extreme heat or cold fluctuations.
• Ensure good ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mold.

• Offer a varied diet of:

  • Decaying plant material.
  • Fresh veggies like carrots, zucchini, potatoes (remove uneaten within 24 hours).
  • Calcium sources include crushed eggshells or specialized calcium supplements.
  • Occasional protein like dried shrimp or fish flakes (sparingly).

No, Powder Orange isopods are generally not considered aggressive.

Yes, Powder Orange isopods can eat live plants, especially if they are not adequately fed with other materials.

These isopods tend to live up to 2 years.

The ideal temperature range between 65-85F, 19- 29C is recommended.

Here is what you can feed them to keep their colony healthy and growing:

• Leaf litter and dead wood.
• Vegetables like carrot slices, cucumber, zucchini, potatoes, and squash work well.
• Calcium sources like crushed eggshells or cuttlebone are good for shell health.
• Isopods need protein too. Offer fish flakes, dried shrimp, mealworms, or even dog food (preferably 100% meat-based treats).
• They also consume decaying plant material and animal droppings in the wild.

Yes, these isopods are generally social. You can start with at least 10-20 individuals

They are most active during the night and at dawn. You can expect some behavior from these isopods such as hiding, foraging, moisture seeking, slightly shyness, etc.

These isopods show different signs of stress such as lethargy, loss of appetite, changes in coloration, frequent hiding or curling up, etc.

Rubber Ducky isopods are generally not that hard to care for, especially if you have experience with other isopods.

These isopods have an average lifespan of 1 to 2 years in captivity. However, they can live up to 4 years when given proper care.

These isopods reach a maximum size of 0.8 inches.

These isopods eat dead organic material like old cork bark.

You can use the thermometer and hygrometer to make sure they remain within the optimal range.

The Japanese magic potion isopod has yellow spots with black dots. The US version has more yellow spots and fewer black dots. The American magic potion can also have some burnt orange spots, while the Japanese version usually doesn’t have.

The American line tends to be larger than the Japanese line. The American line tends to be male-heavy and slower to breed than the Japanese line.

Magic potion isopods love to eat:

• Dead and decaying organic leaf matter.
• Tiny, live or dead animals.
• Fungi
• Leaf mold
• Animal excrement
• Fruits and vegetables like Carrots, Zucchini, Cucumbers, Mushrooms, and Sweet Potatoes
• Calcium sources like Sepia ( It is derived from cuttlefish bone)

Magic Potion isopods tend to live up to 2-3 years with the needed environmental conditions, such as temperature (24-28°C) and a 70-80% humidity level.

They are easy to care for. Keep one side of the enclosure moist and the other side dry. Just keep in mind, they don’t breed as quickly as other types like cows and powders, it may take some time to see their numbers grow.

These isopods grow up to 1 cm in size, ranging from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

Papaya isopods can live up to 2 years in the wild. However, they can easily live up to 3 years with proper care and attention.

These isopods are detritivores and eat rotting wood, leaf litter, vegetables ( Zucchini, Squash, Potatoes, Carrots, Pumpkin, Asparagus as a supplement), and other organic materials.

An adult papaya isopods typically reach about 1.2 centimeters (0.5 inches) in length.

The substrate should be 2-3 inches deep, which is around 5 to 5.5 cm.

Any type of substrate is fine for papaya isopods as long as they don’t contain fertilizers or pesticides. You may consider a substrate mix:

• Aquarium pebbles.
• Horticultural charcoal.
• Substrate (a mix of fresh sphagnum moss, dried sphagnum, fir bark, cypress wood chips, black earth, sand, worm castings, and Promix organic vegetable and herb mix).
• Eggshells.
• Leaf litter (maple, oak, almond, jackfruit).

This combination ensures proper drainage, moisture retention, and a natural environment for these isopods.

You should add a minimum of 1 inch of leaf litter, as it traps substrate moisture, is easy to source, and is often free.

The ideal temperature range for Papaya Isopods is 70-80°F (21-27°C). However, they can also thrive in temperatures ranging from 60-75°F (15-24°C), with the optimal conditions falling around 75-85°F (24-29°C).

Here is the breakdown of food sources you should offer:

• Protein Sources: Bi-weekly or weekly.
• Fruits and vegetables (Carrots, Acorn Squash) -Atleast every few days.

Yes, Panda King isopods are easy to care for, especially compared to other Cubaris species like Rubber Ducky or Shark variants.

Panda Kings are relatively easy to breed. Here is how you can breed Panda King isopods:

Yes, Panda King isopods need a calcium source like limestone which can be beneficial for their exoskeleton development and successful molting.

Panda King isopods live up to 2 to 3 years when provided with proper care. It is important to note that the lifespan can vary based on environmental conditions, diet, and overall husbandry practices.

These isopods enjoy a varied diet, including Dried Shrimp, Carrots, Bee Pollen, Organic Sweet Potatoes, Organic Zucchini Slices, leaf litter, and rotting wood.

Panda King isopods quickly create new colonies. It usually takes 6 months to a year for them to establish, but with good care, they can start breeding within one to two months.

Panda King isopods typically grow to be 0.6–1.6 cm (0.24–0.63 inches) in size.

These isopods are native to Vietnam. They are rare and best suited for people with experience keeping isopods. These isopods take time to settle in, similar to the “rubber ducky” isopods. However, once they are established, they breed fairly easily.

A shoebox-sized plastic bin is often recommended over a traditional terrarium. It is easier to manage and helps keep consistent conditions, particularly the required humidity level of 75-85%. Alternatively, a 12 by 6-inches container or a standard six-quart bin can also work fine. a “12 by 6” container or a standard six-quart bin.

The substrate should be at least 3 inches deep, though 4 inches is even better. The substrate mix should include materials that hold moisture well, such as:

• Coco coir.
• Crushed oak leaves.
• Sphagnum moss.

These materials help keep the moisture levels needed for the isopods to thrive. Additionally, you can provide hiding spots using natural materials like cork bark, rocks, and wood.

Ventilation is important for these isopods, but it should be balanced with humidity. To achieve this:

• Humidity Gradient: Mist only one far side of the enclosure instead of watering it all. This creates a humidity gradient that allows you to choose a comfortable, moist area while having access to drier spots.
• Ventilation: Drill a few small holes in the lid to allow for airflow. This reduces the condensation on the glass, which makes it easier to see the isopods.
• Balance Moisture: If the substrate and moss are too moist, add some layered flat wood or other materials like bark to give the Panda King isopods more places to escape to drier areas.

You should clean Panda King isopods’ enclosures every 6 months to a year, depending on the colony’s health. A good cleaning routine involves removing uneaten food, feces, and dead plant matter.

The primary difference between Japanese and American Magic Potion isopods lie in their appearance and breeding rates.

Magic potion isopods are detritivores, meaning they feed on decaying organic matter like:

The average lifespan of a Magic Potion Isopod is typically 2-3 years.

Magic Potion isopods are beginner-friendly and easy to care for because:

• They are generally resilient and can thrive in a range of conditions.
• They can eat a variety of foods, including decaying plant matter, fruit and vegetables.
• These isopods grow easily in a simple enclosure with adequate moisture and ventilation.

• Magic isopods need minimal care, such as occasional food replenishment and substrate maintenance.

  There are some things you should consider:

  • They are easy to care for, but they may not breed as rapidly as some other species.
  • There are two different lineages of Magic Potion isopods (American and Japanese), and the Japanese line is known to be more prolific.
  • They can be kept on a variety of substrates, but it is important to ensure they have a place to hide and regulate humidity.

Female Magic Potion isopods typically reach reproductive maturity between 3-4 months of age. They can produce multiple broods of babies throughout their lifespan. The growth is also relatively slow, which may take around six months to reach breeding size.

Magic Potion isopods are relatively adaptable to varying temperatures. However, it is best to maintain their environment within a specific temperature range for optimal health and activity:

Optimal Range: 68–77°F (20–25°C)

Tolerable Extremes:

• High: Up to 98.6°F (37°C).
• Low: As low as 32°F (0°C).

While they can survive outside this range, prolonged exposure to temperatures above 85°F (29°C) or below 50°F (10°C) can stress the isopods.

It is essential to create an ideal substrate for these isopods to help ensure:

• Their natural environment.
• Proper moisture retention.
• Nutritional content.
• Sufficient hiding spaces.

Here are the basic components for creating substrate for these isopods:

Magic Potion isopods grow well in a 70% to 80% humidity range within their enclosure.

Here is how you can monitor and maintain humidity for Magic Potion isopods:

1. Use a hygrometer to measure the relative humidity inside the enclosure and make sure it stays within the 70-80% range.
2. Create a gradient within their enclosure where one side is slightly drier and the other side is more humid.
3. Mist the enclosure substrate regularly to keep the moisture levels, but avoid over-saturating it.
4. Make sure there is proper ventilation to prevent excess moisture and mold buildup.
5. Provide a source of water such as a shallow dish or a moistened area of the substrate.
6. Use a substrate that retains moisture, such as a mix of coconut fiber, sphagnum, and leaf litter.

Magic Potion isopods thrive with many hiding spots and decor, including leaf litter, cork bark, wood pieces, and moss.

You can use tap water for misting and drinking. However, it is recommended to dechlorinate it for Magic Potion isopods, as chlorine and chloramine are harmful.

Every 6 months to a year, depending on the colony’s health and the enclosure’s conditions.

If your Magic Potion isopods are breeding too quickly and the population is becoming unmanageable, there are some effective strategies:

Here are some effective strategies to manage the population size of Magic Potion isopods:

1. Remove and rehome or relocate isopods.
2. Reduce the amount of food you provide.
3. Minimize the number of hiding spots.
4. Control environment conditions, such as lowering the temperature slightly or reducing humidity within their tolerance range.
5. Separate by age or size.
6. Do not introduce additional isopod species.

Dairy Cow isopods are primarily used as part of a clean-up crew in bioactive and naturalistic living systems. They help break down organic matter such as:

• Leaf litter
• Cork bark
• Rotting wood
• Excess food waste
• Fecal waste produced by reptiles, amphibians, and other invertebrates.

Yes, they are considered excellent pets especially for beginners.

The lifecycle of Dairy Cow isopods lasts approximately 2-3 years.

No, they do not roll into a ball like pill bugs or roly-polies.

Dairy Cow isopods can nibble on humans, but it doesn’t hurt. Their bite are harmless and might feel like a pinch.

These isopods cannot climb glass.

If you don’t actively feed them, they might eat the live plants.

Create a wet side with moist substrate and a dry side with drier substrate.

Ventilation is important for isopod colonies, including Dairy Cow isopods, as it helps keep proper airflow and prevents excess moisture build-up.
Here is how you can balance ventilation with humidity:

1. Place ventilation holes around the circumference (sides) of the container.
2. Create a humidity gradient by only watering one part of the enclosure.
3. Limit the amount of ventilation in humid environments.

Dairy Cow Isopods primarily eat vegetables, which provide them with the necessary nutrients. Recommended foods include:

• Organic sweet potatoes
• Organic cucumber slices
• CBD hemp main growth stalks
• Freeze-dried green beans
• Freeze-dried peas

They also require calcium sources to support their health and growth. Effective calcium sources for them include:

• Cuttlebone
• Emulsified egg shells (powder form)
• Sea coral calcium
• Organic kefir

It's important to avoid fruit as it tends to attract fruit flies and fungus gnats, which can lead to imbalances in the habitat without proper predatory insects.

Dairy Cow Isopods also enjoy resting in pesticide-free leaf litter, such as large magnolia leaves or decaying cork bark, which supports their breeding.

Use dechlorinated or distilled water, as they are free from chlorine and chloramine.

Clown isopods are species of woodlouse characterized by their vibrant, spotted patterns, typically black with red or yellow markings.

These isopods are quite shy and not aggressive.

Yes, clown isopods are generally considered relatively easy for beginners to care for.

These isopods tend to live up to 1 to 3 years.

Yes, Clown isopods benefit from having a moisture gradient in their habitat.

A mix of coco coir, leaf litter, and a small amount of sand is good for optimal digging and humidity.

You should replace the substrate once within 6-12 weeks.

These isopods enjoy various kinds of foods such as leaf litter, fruit,s and vegetables (Carrots, Zucchini, and Apple).

You should check on your Clown isopod enclosure daily for the first week after you get them and then every 3-4 days.

Just like other isopods, Dalmatian isopods enjoy eating leaf litter, decaying wood, fruits and vegetables (Carrot, Squash, Potatoes and Apples), and specialized isopod food.

These isopods are small to medium-sized reaching up to 8 to 12 mm as adults.

A clear plastic container or a glass terrarium with a lid is best.

For Dalmatian isopods, the substrate depth should be at least 2 inches. You can consider a substrate mix that comprises:

• 2/3 coco peat soil.
• 1/3 crushed coconut shell or vermiculite.

This combination creates a loose, dark material that supports healthy rotation with depth to help the isopods burrow and thrive.

Yes, you should include hiding spots, leaf litter, and bark in their enclosure for their well-being and to create a natural environment.

Dalmatian isopods thrive in a temperature range of 20°C to 26°C (68°F to 79°F).

You should mist once a week and use a substrate that retains moisture. Monitor the humidity levels using a hygrometer, which should lie within 60-70% in the enclosure to ensure the substrate is not too wet or too dry.

Dalmatian isopods do not need special lighting. Ambient room light is fine for them; they don’t need to be in complete darkness. Provide them with areas to hide, such as cork flats. You can mimic a natural day-night cycle using window light or a light source if desired.

Yes, Zebra isopods are generally good for beginner isopos keepers.

Yes, Zebra isopods need high humidity. Like most isopods, they obtain moisture from their environment and food. Maintaining substrate moisture and avoiding letting the enclosure dry out completely is essential.

Yes, Zebra isopods do not breed as quickly as some other species, like Dairy Cow isopods. They tend to grow at a slower rate. If you have had Zebra isopods for a year and are seeing limited growth, it could be due to several factors. Some owners have found that reducing humidity or keeping the enclosure slightly drier can help boost their breeding activity.

Zebra isopods feed on decomposing organic matter, like leaf litter.
Here is a list of foods that they benefit from:

Vegetables

• Peas (fresh or dried)
• Carrots (sliced)
• Butternut Squash (sliced)
• Courgette/Zucchini (sliced)

Fruits

• Apples (sliced)

Protein Sources:

• Fish food (sprinkled over the substrate)
• Dried shrimp/fish (whole for large colonies or broken into smaller pieces for smaller colonies).
• Dried mealworms (whole, easier to manage than dried fish).
• Dried Calciworms (high in calcium).

These isopods are generally easy for beginners to care for. Read more about caring for the Zebra isopods.

Yes, Zebra isopods are quite active. When you first start with them, you may not see them much because they tend to hide under cork bark or decaying wood. However, once they begin breeding, they become much more active and can be seen scurrying around on the surface of the enclosure.

For a terrarium, glass containers are generally preferred due to their clarity and durability.

The ideal temperature range for keeping Zebra isopods healthy is 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C).

The best substrate mix for Zebra isopods includes a combination of the following:

These isopods eat leaf litter, rotting wood, and various vegetable scraps.

These isopods typically grow to about 1 cm in length.

Read more about caring lava isopods.

You can consider a substrate mix including coconut fiber or coir, leaf litter, and decaying wood, etc.

The substrate depth should be at least 3 inches (7.5 cm).

You can include many hiding places, often made from rocks, cork bark, and leaf litter.

To create a moisture gradient in a bioactive terrarium for isopods:

• Add moss or damp substrate (like coconut fiber or sphagnum moss) that you water less or not at all. This will be the dry zone.
• The natural size of the tank will help create some moisture variation, but manually watering only the mossy/wet side helps keep the gradient stable.

The ideal temperature range for these isopods is from 72°F to 85°F.