Why Your Reptile Might Stop Eating in Hot Weather — And What to Do

Why Your Reptile Might Stop Eating in Hot Weather — And What to Do

Posted by TopFlight Dubia on Jun 10th 2025

Reptiles, including popular pets like bearded dragons, are known as ectotherms. They depend mostly on the temperature of their environment to stay warm or cool. 

To manage this, they’ve developed special physical traits and behaviors (called adaptations) that help them survive in different climates.

However, they also make reptiles sensitive to too much heat. When it gets too hot for too long, your reptile can suffer from heat stress. It means they might - 

  • Get dehydrated,
  • Stop eating
  • Have trouble breathing, 
  • Their organs can stop working properly, and 
  • In serious cases, it can even lead to death if not treated quickly.

One of the earliest warning signs of heat stress — especially in bearded dragons — is a sudden refusal to eat. These usually enthusiastic feeders may ignore even their favorite insects, like Dubia roaches.

If your reptile suddenly stops eating Dubia roach eggs or shows no interest in live feeders, it could be a red flag.

So, before you assume it's a feeding issue — especially if you're actively managing your own Dubia roaches breeding setup — it's important to rule out heat stress first.

Let's explore the signs of heat stress and what to do further.

1. Wrong Temperatures in the Enclosure

One of the biggest reasons reptiles get heat stress is that their tank or enclosure gets too hot. Every type of reptile needs a certain temperature to stay healthy — usually a warm spot to bask and a cooler area to rest. 

If the temperature isn’t right, your reptile can overheat, get dehydrated, stop eating, and won’t be able to cool down.

Check out the ideal temperature for the reptiles - 

2. Poor Airflow in the Enclosure

Reptiles need fresh air in their tank to help control the temperature. If there’s not enough airflow, the heat can get trapped inside, making it hard for your reptile to cool down.

Here are some common problems with poor ventilation:

  • Glass tanks or terrariums that don’t have mesh tops or holes for air to escape.
  • Using too many heat lamps in a small space.
  • Keeping reptiles in plastic tubs or sealed containers with barely any air holes.

3. Dehydration Makes Heat Stress Worse

When a reptile gets too hot, it can lose water quickly through breathing and evaporation. If it doesn’t drink enough or doesn’t get the right humidity, it can become dehydrated, which makes it even harder for them to cool down.

Signs your reptile might be dehydrated:

  • Eyes look sunken, and skin looks dry or wrinkly.
  • Saliva is thick and sticky.
  • Not eating and moving around very slowly.

What Could Happen if Your Reptile Stops Eating?

Here are some possible signs that you will notice - 

1. Weakness, Tiredness, or Not Responding

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When a reptile stops eating, it can become very tired, weak, or even stop reacting to things around it. This happens because the heat can damage cells and affect the brain and muscles, making it hard for the reptile to move.

Signs to look out for:

  • Doesn’t move or react when you touch or pick it up
  • Looks tired and not alert like usual
  • Won’t move, even if you gently try to get it to

At first, a hungry reptile might seem jumpy or restless, but if it keeps overheating, it can quickly become sluggish and unresponsive. This is a serious warning sign and needs immediate attention from a vet.

2. Shaky Movements or Muscle Jerks

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If your reptile or bearded dragon is acting weirdly and skipping food, it can start to affect its brain and nerves. This can cause twitching, shaking, or trouble moving normally.

Watch for signs like:

  • Walking in a weird or wobbly way
  • Not being able to move their legs, tail, or body properly
  • Muscle twitching or sudden jerking movements

3. Heavy Breathing or Panting

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Reptiles don’t sweat like people do. When they get too hot and skip eating, some will breathe with their mouths open or start panting to try to cool down. This is especially common in lizards and some snakes.

What to watch for:

  • Your reptile is breathing with its mouth open for a long time
  • Breathing looks fast, heavy, or like they’re gasping
  • You notice their throat puffing out or their chest moving a lot when they breathe

If this keeps happening and nothing is done, your reptile can start to run low on oxygen and become very stressed or even seriously sick. It’s important to cool them down and get help quickly if you see these signs.

What To Do For First Aid?

Step 1: Remove the Heat Source

The very first thing you should do if your reptile is overheating is to get them out of the heat right away. But be careful — cooling them down too fast can actually cause more harm than good. It’s important to cool them slowly and gently.

How to Safely Move Your Reptile Out of the Heat:

  • Take your reptile away from things like heat lamps, heating pads, or direct sunlight.
  • Put them in a shady, cooler area with good airflow — not too cold, just cooler than their tank.
  • Don’t put them in front of a fan or air conditioner, and don’t set them on anything cold like ice or metal — cooling too quickly can send their body into shock.

If they’re in a tank with poor airflow, remove the lid or open the mesh top (if available), or increase ventilation to let the heat out.

Why You Should Cool Them Down Slowly?

Reptiles depend on the temperature around them to control their body functions. If you cool them down too fast, their body might not handle it well. This can lead to shock or mess up their internal balance.

Instead, try to cool them gently over 10–30 minutes, depending on how overheated they are.

Important Things to Avoid:

No cold water or ice baths — this can trap heat inside the body by shrinking the blood vessels too quickly.

No freezing surfaces — cold objects can burn their skin or cause more stress.

No sealed boxes or carriers without airflow — these can trap heat and make things worse.

Once your reptile is in a cooler, safe place, the next thing to do is rehydrate them and help with breathing.

Step 2: Hydration and Gentle Cooling

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After moving your reptile out of the heat, the next important step is to help them cool down slowly and get rehydrated. 

When reptiles overheat, they lose a lot of water, which can cause dehydration, stress on their organs, and imbalanced body functions. Giving them water in the right way helps them feel better and recover faster.

How to Rehydrate Your Reptile?

Start by offering clean, cool (not cold) water. How you do this depends on the type of reptile and what it’s comfortable with.

Ways to Give Water:

Misting: Lightly spray your reptile’s skin or the inside of its enclosure. This works well for reptiles like chameleons or anoles that drink water droplets from leaves or surfaces.

Shallow Soak: If your reptile is okay with soaking (like tortoises, bearded dragons, or some snakes), place them in a shallow dish. Make sure to keep them in lukewarm or slightly cool water for 5–10 minutes.

Drip or Dropper Method: Use a dropper or syringe (without a needle) to place small drops of water on your reptile’s nose. This works for reptiles like geckos or snakes, who may lick it up if they’re thirsty.

✅ Safety Tips:

  • Make sure the water is shallow so your reptile can’t accidentally drown.
  • Always let your reptile get out of the water if it wants to — don’t force it to stay in.

⚠️ What NOT to Do:

  • Don’t force water into their mouth — it can go into their lungs and cause choking or illness.
  • Don’t completely submerge your reptile — it can stress them out or cause shock.

Giving your reptile water the right way, along with gentle cooling, is one of the best things you can do to help them recover from heat stress.

Step 3: Offer Food Strategically

After your reptile starts to recover from heat stress, getting them to eat again is important, but it needs to be done carefully and at the right time.

Tips for Encouraging Eating:

  • Feed During Cooler Times: Offer food in the early morning or late evening when it’s cooler. Your reptile is more likely to eat when its body temperature is more stable.
  • Smaller Portions: Start with small, manageable portions — for insectivores, even just one or two Dubia roaches may be enough at first.
  • Add Variety: If your reptile has been eating the same thing every day, try offering something new (but still safe). Try mixing in different sizes or life stages from your Dubia roach breeding setup, such as Dubia roach eggs or small nymphs, which can sometimes spark curiosity and appetite.

⚠️ Important:

Never force-feed your reptile unless your veterinarian tells you to. Forcing food can cause injury, stress, or even choking. Always consult a reptile vet if they continue refusing food.

To Wrap Up

Reptiles are very sensitive to heat, and stopping to eat is often one of the first warning signs that something’s wrong. 

When temperatures climb too high, it can quickly lead to dehydration, heat stress, and serious health problems — even death if left untreated.

But with the right knowledge and quick action, you can prevent heat-related issues and keep your reptile safe, healthy, and comfortable all summer long.

Occasional Veggies (2–3x/week):

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

01. What veggies can bearded dragons eat every day?

Bearded dragons can safely eat certain vegetables daily. These should be staples in their diet:

Daily Staple Veggies:

  • Collard greens
  • Mustard greens
  • Turnip greens
  • Dandelion greens
  • Endive
  • Escarole
  • Squash (butternut, acorn, yellow)
  • Bell peppers (in moderation)
  • Carrots (grated, in moderation)

Occasional Veggies (2–3x/week):

  • Kale (high in oxalates)
  • Spinach (binds calcium)
  • Broccoli (can cause gas)
  • Cabbage
  • Zucchini

Avoid iceberg lettuce and high-oxalate or goitrogenic vegetables in large quantities.

02. How long can bearded dragons go without food?

This depends on age, health, and environment:

Healthy Adult (with good fat stores):

  • Can go up to 2–4 weeks without food, especially during brumation (a hibernation-like state).

Juveniles (under 1 year):

  • Should not go more than a few days without food.
  • They need protein and nutrients for growth.

Sick or Underweight Dragons:

  • Should not go without food for more than a few days.
  • Extended fasting can lead to serious health issues.

03. What are the best substrates for bearded dragons?

  • Reptile carpet – Safe, reusable, and easy to clean
  • Paper towels or newspaper – Cheap, clean, and safe (great for young dragons)
  • Tiles (ceramic or slate) – Durable, easy to clean, helps trim nails
  • Non-adhesive shelf liner – Soft, easy to clean, safe